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Used but in excellent condition, Delta 36-816 10" Unisaw. It has the whole table extension, Biesemeyer Fence bla bla... I have it in pieces right now as I had to pull it apart to get it down my steps and around a 90* corner to get in my basement shop last night.
Before I use it Ill need to run another 220 line to my shop as it has as 3 hp 220 motor.



Here is what it will look like together, minus the router and roller table in the back..


This is NOT mine, but rather a good excample of what it will look like.

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

Nice buy, Lance! Do yourself a favour, and rent an appliance cart with rachet strap, buy a 12pk of premium beer, and call two beefy friends. I had to get my saw down to the basement as well, and could have used another body besides my nephew.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

That's a big toy.

Oh, my back!

It shouldn't be too bad with the top off and the motor removed. I took the trunnions out of my saw, and the base still weighed over 500lbs.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Don't pick it up by the fence guide like the guys did with mine.

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wah
Wah-wah-wah-wah
Wah

These days, it pains me to look at anything over 50 pounds...
Glad to see it is a used machine!

Over 500lbs ? Wow. What make of saw would that be ?

It is a General 550-T50, the one that will take a 14" blade. I bought it used for about the price of a new, quality grade, contractors saw. I did have to put some elbow grease into it, though.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Lance, I reposition my fence, so I can have 32" on both sides. It acts like a hybrid uni-saw!

Hi David,
I see you have the unifence. One nice thing about it is you can easily slide the fence back to do cut off work. To work on the left side of the blade you have to swap the bolts and fence to the opposite side IIRC. No big deal to do that.
What made you decide to move the rail to the left?

Clay,
When cutting 45* , I like to have the blade on the bottom side of the bevel & I still have to move the fence and change the bolts, no big deal! I only need to cut 32 inches wide and this gives me the option to cut with the blade angled away from the fence when at a 45*! I changed it 3 years ago and I really like the set up! It was just an experiment to see how it would work and if I didn't like it, I was going to cut the fence rail shorter to save room in my workshop. Now it's a hybrid and standard Unisaw!!

One of the nice things with the Biesmeyer fence is that you can rip on either side.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Couple of nice machines there and don't forget "Protect against hernias".

Steve

"One of the nice things with the Biesmeyer fence is that you can rip on either side."

You can also do that with the unifence, as stated above. Another advantage of the unifence is that you can slide the blade back and use it like a short Euro style fence. With the Biesmeyer style fence you need to clamp a block of wood to the side of the fence to provide clearance when doing cut off work, and also compensate for the offset from the tape measure on the fence.
I have used both fences, and like them both, but the unifence is handier in some ways (my fences are Biesmeyer style, because that is what was available when I bought them).
David, I like your thinking on the fence set up. I may have to try that on one of my saws.

Right you are, Clay. Its been a long time since I've seen a Unifence that I forgot that you could do that.
I like your left side rip set up, Eddy. I can rip just to 17" left of the blade, but I don't have any room to extend my fence rail on that side. It scares me to think of doing a bevel cut under the blade!

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

"It scares me to think of doing a bevel cut under the blade! "

When I do that I always stand to the side of the saw. I had a beveled offcut go through the wall of the shop after being launched by the table saw. Admittedly the shop wall is a bit flimsy , but still tougher than my fat belly.

Very nice!
My idea is to eliminate a table that I use solely for my binding jig and mount the jig to the extended saw table making a little room in the shop. I might also mount a router underneath. Not sure about that yet..

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

Update, I was wrong about the fence, its a Unisaw fence not a Biesemeyer. Learning more and more about this thing....

This is what it looks like..

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

Adding a router to the outfeed table is a real plus. You can mount auxillary fences with dust collection to the rip fence. I use a couple of these. http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.a ... 51208&ap=1 The footprint is small enough that they resist sagging, unlike some of the rectangular ones that I've used in the past.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Thanks Alex! I just saved that webpage!

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

Hi Lance,
After you start working with the Unifence you will see it has some advantages over the typical T square type.

Hi Alex,
The router insert looks like a nice idea. I'm assuming it is an oval shape that allows it to be rotated and drop out through the bottom? My "router table" is just a hole bored into the plywood table extension. I may try to make an inset like that using some Corian scraps I have.
I try to minimize the foot print of tools in my small shop, so I made a short rail out of a piece of Richlite material and a mobile base out of plywood and a set of castors. The old Unisaw I bought had angle iron screwed to two sides of the cabinet to which I attached the plywood . It only raised the saw about an additional 1/2 inch above the floor. I often use the saw as an auxiliary work table and have thought about making a table top that would drop on top of the saw with vises attached and bench dog holes. But maybe that is too complicated.

Nice score Lance.

I use my table saw (late 1950's unisaw) as a second workbench all the time and I clamp my binding jig to my saw top just like you're envisioning...the only problem with this is sometimes you need to use the saw when it's being used as a bench....

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Hi Clay - the insert plate is round, and tilts so that you can remove it from below the table. I use a pair of 3hp Makita routers with these plates, and they pop out easily. Take a look at the instuctions, you can pretty much replicate the installation with a circle cutting base on your router, a staight bit and a rabbeting bit.

Alex

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"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

circular - simpler yet!